Arun Arora
Manali always evokes images of bustling streets, adventure sports, and crowds. I had been there before, and done the usual tourist circuit. While beautiful, it always left me seeking something more, something quieter – the authentic whisper of the Himalayas. So, this time, my trip was different. Armed with local recommendations and a thirst for tranquillity, I embarked on a journey to the offbeat destinations tucked away in the Beas Valley – a journey to discover the soul of the mountains.
History in the air
My first stop was Naggar, a mere 20 km from the maddening crowds of Manali, yet a world apart. Once the ancient capital of the Kullu kingdom for 1,400 years, Naggar moves at a different pace. The moment I stepped out of the cab, the scent of deodar trees filled the air, and the cacophony of the town faded into a gentle murmur of local life.
I stayed in a traditional Kathkuni-style homestay, a marvel of earthquake-resistant architecture made of wood and stone, offering a breathtaking view of the Beas River meandering through the lush valley below. My days were spent exploring the magnificent Naggar Castle, a 15th-century structure that blends Himalayan and European design and now serves as a heritage hotel. Walking its corridors, I felt transported to a different era, each creaking floorboard telling a story of kings and poets.
Nearby, the Nicholas Roerich Art Gallery, once the estate of the famous Russian painter, provided a serene artistic interlude with its captivating paintings of the Himalayan landscape.
The real charm, however, was the local life. I shared meals with warm-hearted locals in their homes, sampling authentic Himachali cuisine like siddu and rajma-chawal. The evening trek to the ancient Murlidhar Krishna Temple offered panoramic views of the valley, a spiritual and visual treat. Naggar taught me to slow down and listen to the quiet stories the mountains had to tell.
A Buddhist haven
Next, I ventured to the small Buddhist hamlet of Sethan, located about 12 kilometres from Manali and perched at around 9,000 feet. The drive itself was an adventure, winding through 35 hairpin bends, but the destination was worth every turn.
Sethan offers unparalleled seclusion with a panoramic view of the Dhauladhar range. In winter, the village transforms into India’s famous ‘Igloo Village’, blanketed in snow and buzzing with activities like skiing. Even in summer, it’s a base for serious trekkers.
Setham serves as the starting point for the famous Hampta Pass trek, a challenging yet rewarding journey through forests, meadows, and rivers. The absence of a strong mobile network was a blessing, forcing a digital detox and leaving room for stargazing and peaceful walks in the alpine meadows. I spent my time simply ‘being’ in the moment, enjoying the pure mountain air and the consuming silence.
The virgin valleys
Seeking even deeper solitude, I took a detour to the relatively unknown Fojal Valley, an incredibly remote region roughly halfway between Kullu and Manali. The tourism infrastructure here is almost non-existent, which is precisely its charm. It is a cluster of a dozen small, rustic villages where life moves at a pace long forgotten in urban areas.
My time in Fojal was about unadulterated nature. The valley is a green paradise, with traditional Himachali houses scattered across the landscape. The locals, initially curious about a solo traveller in their part of the world, were incredibly welcoming, eager to share a smile or a story. This is a place for quiet relaxation, forest walks, and appreciating the simplicity of mountain life. The golden glow of the snow-capped peaks at sunset was a sight I won’t forget soon.
Just a short drive away, on the Naggar road, lies Soyal Village. This tranquil spot offers a picturesque setting with a glacial water stream, thick deodar forests, and charming riverside cafes. I spent a peaceful afternoon by the stream, letting the sound of rushing water wash away any lingering city stress. The village is perfect for a day trip or an overnight camping experience under the stars.
My time exploring these hidden corners near Manali was a reminder that true beauty often lies off the beaten path, away from the noise and the crowds. It’s in the quiet villages, the untouched forests, and the genuine warmth of the people that the true essence of the Himalayas resides, a whisper I’m glad I took the time to hear.
The absence of a strong mobile network was a blessing, forcing a digital detox and leaving room for stargazing and peaceful walks in the alpine meadows
